This Sunday I’m suggesting a neighbourhood plan, the kind you can do without taking the metro. In the morning, books and trading cards at the Sant Antoni Sunday market. Then vermouth at Bar Calders and Peruvian food at Pueblo Libre, my go-to Peruvian. And to finish, a free talk with Mariana Enríquez at the CCCB, on the last day of the Biennal de Pensament.
The plan at a glance
Where Sant Antoni and El Raval · Metro Sant Antoni (L2) and Urgell (L1)
When Sunday 18 October, from 10:00 to 20:00 · Budget vermouth, lunch and a free talk
1. The Sant Antoni Sunday market
Every Sunday morning, around the Mercat de Sant Antoni, the Sunday market is set up on carrer del Comte d’Urgell. It’s the classic place for a rummage:
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Books: antique, second-hand and out-of-print editions, in Spanish and Catalan.
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Comics from every era, including single issues.
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Trading cards, stamps and coins, which change every week.
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Retro video games and films on physical formats.
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Hours: Sundays from 8:30. It closes around 14:00, although some sources say 14:30, so don’t leave it too late.
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Price: browsing is free.
If you like markets, I have a guide to the best markets in Barcelona.
2. Vermouth at Bar Calders
Bag full, it’s vermouth time. Bar Calders is at carrer del Parlament, 25, a couple of streets from the market, and it’s the best-loved bar in Sant Antoni. It has vermouth, natural wines and tapas, a small terrace and a very local feel.
- Hours: on Sunday, from 11:00 to midnight.
- Tip: it fills up at Sunday lunchtime, so get there around 12:30.
There are more places like this in my neighbourhood bodegas in Barcelona.
3. Lunch at Pueblo Libre
For lunch, a few minutes away, there’s Pueblo Libre (carrer de Sepúlveda, 151), a Peruvian tavern with traditional cooking. Start with ceviches, causas and chicharrones, then try chifa dishes such as lomo saltado or arroz con pato, or Italian-Peruvian dishes such as tallarines con milanesa.
My favourites are the lomo saltado and the tallarines a la huancaína. Portions are generous, so it’s best to share.
- Hours: on Sunday, lunch only, from 13:00 to 15:45. Closed on Monday.
- Bookings: on their website. For groups of more than 8, call to arrange a menu.
4. Mariana Enríquez at the close of the Biennal de Pensament
After lunch, cross ronda de Sant Antoni into El Raval. If you have time, stop by plaça dels Àngels, in front of the MACBA, to watch the skaters.
The CCCB (carrer de Montalegre, 5) hosts the last day of the Biennal de Pensament, and the evening is a treat:
- 18:00. Mariana Enríquez in conversation with Valerie Miles about the city at night, architecture and memory.
- 19:30. The closing event with Leila Guerriero, Marta Sanz, Neige Sinno, Antònia Vicens and Pol Guasch.
Both are in the CCCB’s Pati de les Dones.
- Price: free.
- Bookings: some sessions require booking in advance. Check the Biennal website before you go and arrive early, because the best-known talks fill up.
Tips for this plan
- Go to the market early: the best finds go first.
- Book Pueblo Libre: on Sunday it only opens for lunch.
- If you’d rather have beer than vermouth, Sunday 18 is the last day of Oktoberfest at Fàbrica Moritz, at ronda de Sant Antoni, 41, with half-litre steins at €3.50.
For more ideas this weekend, see what to do in Barcelona this weekend, my Raval plan with cinema and absinthe or the Mapa Inspira.
Frequently asked questions
What are the Sant Antoni Sunday market’s hours?
It’s set up every Sunday morning on carrer del Comte d’Urgell, next to the Mercat de Sant Antoni, from 8:30. It closes around 14:00, although some sources say 14:30.
Do you have to pay to see Mariana Enríquez at the Biennal de Pensament?
No, the Biennal de Pensament is free. Some sessions require booking in advance, so check the Biennal website before you go and arrive early.
Is Pueblo Libre open on Sunday?
Yes, on Sunday it opens for lunch only, from 13:00 to 15:45. It’s closed on Monday. For groups of more than 8, it’s best to call ahead.
